There are many different styles of Chardonnay. Soil condition, aspect and even vineyard location can have a big impact on the finished wine.
And even before this, winemaking decisions and inputs will determine the finished expression.
Choice of clonal material, the season or vintage conditions and farming philosophy too will have an impact.
In the winery, tipping-point decisions, such as skin contact, lees contact and, of course, oak decisions all contribute.
Increasingly, the style, shape and form of Chardonnay is evolving – full-bodied creamy, fruity, oaky and buttery expressions still command an audience, yet so do the fine linear, flinty and perfectly-textured examples as well.
Cameron Douglas MS explores some of the options in this month’s tasting guide, here are some of his top picks…
Eaton Raupo Vineyard Chardonnay 2021, Marlborough
Fabulous colour and bouquet, a wine with a distinctive scent profile and textural impact. Aromas of complexity from bottle age and time on lees, framed by soft barrel spices. Suggested notes of baked peach and apple, grapefruit peel, and a touch of quince and fig. Full-bodied in flavour and texture, with spices and phenolics leading the structure, followed by fruit flavours that mirror the bouquet. Balanced, well-made, and ready to drink from the day of purchase through to 2029. An excellent example and interpretation.
Points: 95
RRP: $54.00
Distributor: Eaton Family Wines
Phone: (022 198 0698)
www.eatonwines.nz
Mount Brown Estates Grand Reserve Chardonnay 2023, North Canterbury
A generous and enticing bouquet of ripe stone fruits and baking spices of barrel, French vanilla, and nutmeg with baked peach and pineapple, then a grapefruit and clay quality. Full-bodied, textured, and delicious on the palate. Dry, with a backbone of acidity capturing flavours of baked peach and citrus, smoky barrel spices, and kitchen spice-cupboard ideas. Well-made, delicious, and ready to drink from the day of purchase through 2029+. Fabulous value.
Points: 95
RRP: $29.00
Distributor: Mount Brown Estates
Phone: (027) 521 6693
www.mountbrown.co.nz
Emma Marris Chardonnay 2023, Marlborough
A very bright, taut, and enticing bouquet with scents of fresh grapefruit, red apple, and white stone fruits, followed by a layer of spice and mineral notes of equal intensity that add complexity and intrigue. A dry wine with a satin touch begins the palate journey, with flavours of citrus and apple skin, then stone fruit and a hint of white pineapple. There’s spice and warmth, fine tannins, and plenty of acidity to frame the wine overall. Well made with medium-plus length and complexity. Best enjoyed from 2025 through 2030. A wine to watch.
Points: 94
RRP: $34.99
Distributor: Marisco
Phone: (09) 347 2000
www.marisco.co.nz
Nanny Goat Vineyard Single Vineyard Queensberry 2023, Central Otago
Fine and complex, mineral-centric, with a frame of citrus and white-fleshed stone fruits, lees, and barrel spices. A gunflint quality adds intrigue and complexity. Delicious on the palate—a wine with texture and fruit, citrus peel and apple, white peach and grapefruit. The flinty quality is persistent, sitting nicely with the acid line and tannins. Still youthful, with best drinking from late 2025 through to 2030.
Points: 94
RRP: $75.00
Distributor: Red+White Cellar
Phone: (09) 376 0760
www.nannygoatvineyard.co.nz
To read all of Cameron’s wine reviews, click here!
Cameron Douglas is New Zealand’s first and only Master Sommelier. An experienced wine commentator, judge, reviewer, presenter and consultant, he is the Beverage Director & Group Sommelier for Rodd & Gunn and is the Patron of the New Zealand Sommeliers and Wine Professionals Association. Formerly academically in charge of the Wine & Beverage Programme at AUT in Auckland, Douglas has also consulted to a variety of establishments, taking care of their wine lists, wine and food pairings, and staff training matters, and he currently serves on the Board of Directors for the Court of Master Sommeliers Americas.
How to catch up with The Shout NZ…
Online, updated daily with its own unique content and breaking news.
Our weekly newsletter – free to your inbox! Subscribe here.
We are also on Facebook and Instagram!
